A Native American Legend that Carries with him Part of the Brazilian Surf History

A Native American surfer from California, Johnny Rice became an unexpected pioneer in Brazilian surf history during the 1970s. His journey blends culture, innovation, and passion—connecting U.S. surf roots with Brazil’s rising wave scene.

By Mark Lund

Johnny Rice is a true legend of Californian surf culture. A natural-born surfer, he spends his weekdays riding waves and his weekends shaping boards in his backyard.

Johnny believes surfing benefits life in four essential ways: physically, mentally, emotionally, and spiritually.

Now 79 years old, he descends from Native American lineages—Santee Dakota Sioux and Prairie Band Potawatomi. His parents grew up in a reservation far from the ocean, in Dakota.

From Reservation Roots to California Waves

Johnny’s love for surfing began in the late 1940s, after moving to Southern California and discovering the surf lifestyle.

Originally from Santa Cruz, California, he lives and breathes the culture. Today, he runs his own business and organizes his schedule around ocean conditions, traveling freely to surf destinations.

For Johnny, shaping boards is more than a job—it’s about bringing happiness to others, which in turn fulfills him.

A Hidden Link to Brazilian Surf History

Few people know that Johnny carries a piece of 1970s Brazilian surf history.

He arrived in Brazil in 1974, at age 36. However, his passion for surfing started much earlier—at age 11, when he first took to the waves. A photograph from that moment is now displayed in one of California’s most important surf museums.

Learning from the Godfather of Surfboards

Like many passionate young surfers, Johnny tried to make a living from the sport. His breakthrough came at 14, when his family moved to Los Angeles.

Johnny with a Long Board

There, he trained under Dale Velzy, widely known as the “Godfather of board shaping.” Johnny worked in a surf shop in Venice Beach, gaining invaluable experience.

By 1957, he returned to Santa Cruz, working with the Mitchell Brothers, who opened the town’s first surf shop.

Witnessing Surfing’s Technological Evolution

Johnny witnessed major innovations in surfing, including:

• The transition from wooden boards to fiberglass foam boards
• The introduction of neoprene wetsuits, solving the challenge of California’s cold waters

These changes made surfing more accessible, transforming it from a niche sport into a global phenomenon.

Surf Culture Meets Hollywood and Hawaii

Johnny lived through the golden era of surf culture:

• He was active when Jack O’Neill launched his brand in 1959
• He worked as an extra in surf films like “Gidget”
• In the mid-1960s, he moved to Hawaii, working as a Waikiki “Beach Boy” with George Downing

Later, during the surf boom in Florida, Johnny shaped hundreds of boards per month—all while listening not to The Beach Boys, but to Bossa Nova legends like Tom Jobim and João Gilberto.

The Dream of Brazil Becomes Reality

Inspired by Brazilian music, Johnny dreamed of visiting Brazil.

In the early 1970s, he met Brazilian surfers Alan Birnbaum and Sérgio Sachs, who invited him to take a chance in Brazil.

Without guarantees, Johnny moved with his family to São Paulo, heading straight to Guarujá’s Tombo Beach, where he established his base for nearly five years.

Transforming Brazilian Surf Culture

At Tombo Beach, Johnny:

• Introduced advanced board-shaping techniques
• Trained local surfers and craftsmen
• Helped elevate Brazilian surfboard design

Owning a “Johnny Rice” board became a symbol of status and quality.

Supporting Future Surf Legends

Johnny’s influence extended beyond shaping boards. He:

• Sponsored surfers with his own money
• Helped young talents like Tinguinha, who couldn’t afford a board
• Supported future icons like Neno Matos, Neco Carbone, and Alfio Lagnado

Alfio would later become the owner of Hang Loose, one of Brazil’s most successful surf brands.

A Deep Love for Brazil

Johnny left Brazil in 1978, possibly due to visa issues or personal struggles.

But his connection to the country never faded.

He still:

• Speaks Portuguese
• Tells Brazilian jokes
• Keeps albums and souvenirs
• Expresses deep “saudade”

The Native-American Johnny Rice.

His dream? To one day live part of the year in Brazil.

A Life of Balance and Purpose

Today, Johnny—known in his tribe as “Mni Akan Mani” (Walks on Water)—lives a peaceful life in Santa Cruz.

After overcoming personal struggles and spending over 50 years surfing and shaping boards, he has found balance.

He continues to surf and shape boards alongside his wife, Rosemari, living in a home that resembles a mini surf museum.

One Last Dream

Despite everything he’s achieved, Johnny still has one dream:

To live in Brazil’s Northeastern coast, in a simple house by the beach—and finally say:

“I’m Brazilian.”

*Update: Johnny Rice, a well-known Santa Cruz surfboard shaper whose traveling career began in 1950, died of pneumonia in July 2015 at the age of 77.

* Mark Lund, the author, is one of these Americans in love with Brazil. He’s been living in Maresias Beach, in the state of São Paulo, for over 30 years. He puts together professional surf events and championships, and also owns a bar called “Legends.”

FAQ – Frequently Asked Questions

1. Who is Johnny Rice?
Johnny Rice is a Native American surfer and board shaper from California who played a key role in the development of Brazilian surf culture in the 1970s.

2. What is Johnny Rice’s connection to Brazil?
He lived in Guarujá for nearly five years, where he helped train surfers, shape boards, and support emerging talents.

3. Why is Johnny Rice important to surfing history?
He contributed to both Californian and Brazilian surf evolution, especially through board shaping and mentorship.

4. Which Brazilian surfers did he influence?
He supported names like Tinguinha, Neno Matos, Neco Carbone, and Alfio Lagnado.

5. Does Johnny Rice still surf today?
Yes. Even in his late 70s, he continues surfing and shaping boards regularly.